SPF, PA++++, chemical vs mineral, and the Canadian detail most K-beauty guides skip: DIN and NPN numbers. A practical guide to choosing and using sunscreen.
Korean sunscreens have a fan club for a simple reason: they're nice to wear. Light textures, little or no white cast, and finishes that don't fight with makeup. When sunscreen feels good, you actually use it every day, and daily use is what matters.
But if you live in Canada like I do, there's a part of the story most K-beauty guides leave out. Let's cover the labels first, then the Canadian bit.
SPF mostly measures protection against UVB, the rays mainly responsible for sunburn. Roughly speaking, SPF 30 filters about 97% of UVB and SPF 50 about 98%. Most dermatology groups recommend at least SPF 30 for everyday use.
The jump from 30 to 50 is smaller than it sounds. What matters more is applying enough and reapplying.
Korean and other Asian sunscreens also show a PA rating, which describes UVA protection. UVA goes deeper into the skin and is closely linked to dark spots and photoaging.
For daily use, I'd look for SPF 30 or higher with PA+++ or PA++++.
Chemical (organic) filters absorb UV. They usually feel lighter and disappear on the skin, which is why most of the famous Korean "essence" sunscreens use them.
Mineral filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) mainly absorb UV too, with some scattering. They can leave a white cast, though newer formulas are much better. Some people with sensitive skin find them more comfortable.
Hybrids mix both.
Neither type is automatically better. Choose the one you'll wear every day without complaining.
In Korea, sunscreens are sold as gineungseong hwajangpum (기능성화장품), "functional cosmetics," reviewed by Korea's food and drug safety ministry.
In Canada, sunscreens are regulated by Health Canada as either drugs or natural health products. A sunscreen authorised for sale here will have either:
printed on the label.
Many Korean sunscreens bought from overseas websites were made for the Korean market and don't carry a DIN or NPN. That doesn't automatically mean they're bad products, but it does mean Health Canada hasn't reviewed that specific product for sale here. Some brands also make different formulas for different countries, so the "same" sunscreen can vary.
What I'd suggest:
This is where most people fall short. For the face and neck, use about two finger-lengths (index and middle finger). For the face alone, roughly a quarter teaspoon. Using half that amount gives you noticeably less protection than the label says.
Don't forget ears, the back of your neck, your hairline and the backs of your hands.
Over makeup, sunscreen sticks, sprays or SPF cushions are better than nothing, though it's hard to get a full dose that way.
"It's cloudy, I don't need it." A good share of UV gets through clouds.
"It's winter." UVA is around all year, and snow reflects UV. If you ski or snowshoe, you get hit from below as well as above.
"My foundation has SPF." You'd need far more foundation than anyone wears to reach the SPF on the label.
Water-resistant sunscreens are designed to stick. An oil cleanser followed by a gentle cleanser removes them properly. The double cleansing Q&A has the details.
Choose SPF 30+ with high UVA protection, in a texture you like, and use enough of it. If you're in Canada and buying Korean, spend ten seconds checking the label for a DIN or NPN so you know what you're getting. That small habit matters more than which cult sunscreen you pick.
Aran is Korean, lives in Canada, and reads Korean labels and research so you don't have to. About Aran · How I write these guides