Byeongpul, Cica, Centella: Why One Plant Is on Half the Korean Shelf

If you've ever looked at a Korean skincare label in Korean, you may have seen the word 병풀 (byeongpul). That's centella asiatica. On English packaging it's usually shortened to "cica," and in other countries you might hear it called gotu kola or tiger grass.

Same plant, many names. And in Korean skincare it's everywhere: toners, creams, pads, sunscreens, even cleansers.

Why Korean brands love it

Centella is a small plant that grows in damp areas across Asia. It has a long history in traditional medicine for skin and wound care, and modern research has focused on a group of compounds it contains called triterpenoids.

For brands, it ticks a lot of boxes. It's generally gentle, it fits the "soothing and calming" message that sells well in Korea, and it pairs easily with almost every other ingredient.

The four names worth recognising

When you read an ingredient list, these are the centella compounds you'll see most:

• Madecassoside. Mostly associated with calming the look of redness.
• Asiaticoside. Associated with skin repair and hydration.
• Madecassic acid and asiatic acid. Studied for soothing and antioxidant activity, and in lab work for collagen-related activity.

If a product lists these individually (or uses a standardised extract like "TECA"), it's usually a better sign than a vague "centella asiatica extract" buried near the end.

What it can realistically do

Lab studies and some small clinical studies suggest centella may help:

• calm reactive, irritated skin
• support barrier recovery
• keep skin hydrated
• provide antioxidant activity

What it won't do is replace a sunscreen, clear acne on its own, or fade dark spots quickly. I think of it as a support player. It makes skin more comfortable, which in turn makes stronger treatments easier to tolerate.

Who it suits

Almost everyone, but especially:

• sensitive skin that reacts easily (see the sensitive skin guide)
• acne-prone skin, to calm redness around breakouts
• skin recovering from over-exfoliation
• people using retinoids who want something soothing alongside

How to tell if there's actually much centella in it

This is where reading the full ingredient list pays off.

• Centella near the top (sometimes it even replaces water as "centella asiatica leaf water") suggests a meaningful amount.
• Individual compounds listed (madecassoside, asiaticoside) show the brand is using specific actives.
• "Cica" on the front, centella at the very end of the list usually means it's mostly marketing.

On Korean packaging, the full list is labelled 전성분 (jeonseongbun). If you're buying from a Korean site, that's the section to look for.

How to use it

Pick the format that fits your routine:

• Toner if you want soothing hydration right after cleansing.
• Serum or ampoule for a more concentrated dose.
• Cream if you want calming plus barrier support in one step.
• Pads if you like quick application on specific spots.

Centella works morning and night and plays well with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and retinoids.

Any downsides?

It's generally well tolerated, but plant extracts can still cause reactions in some people. Watch the rest of the formula too. A "cica cream" with heavy fragrance can still irritate sensitive skin, which defeats the purpose. Patch test first, as always.

My take

Centella is one of the few trendy ingredients I'd call genuinely easy to recommend. It's gentle, versatile and does what it promises, which is mostly to keep skin calm. Just make sure the product actually contains a decent amount, rather than paying for the word "cica" on the box.

Written by Aran

Aran is Korean, lives in Canada, and reads Korean labels and research so you don't have to. About Aran · How I write these guides